REVIEW · FUNCHAL
Fanal Ancient Forest Running Tour (Easy-Moderate)
Book on Viator →Operated by Madeira Trail Tours · Bookable on Viator
Fanal Forest feels like a storybook—only you’re running through it. This Funchal trail running tour keeps the group small (capped at six), so you actually get hands-on attention on a route through UNESCO-listed scenery. I especially like the clear “easy-moderate” rhythm: a steady climb into Fanal, then a more relaxed return along a levada. One thing to consider is the trail can get muddy and slick, so you’ll want to feel comfortable moving over dirt, rocks, and roots.
The route starts near Curral Falso at 850m and climbs softly to the Fanal area around 1150m, where the open green space with cows and huge ancient trees sets a rare mood. In wet weather, the same fairy-tale vibe can turn into a traction test—still memorable, but not the kind of run you do in brand-new shoes.
In This Review
- Quick hits before you go
- Into the Fanal Ancient Forest with a real running focus
- Start point and pickup: where your run begins in Funchal
- Climb to Vereda do Fanal: the first act of the route
- Fanal Forest itself: cows, ancient trees, and that unreal open space
- The return along Levada dos Cedros: flatter running, changing footing
- Terrain reality check: dirt, mud, rocks, and roots
- How long should you plan for: timing and effort
- Price and value: is $78.19 worth it?
- Getting the best out of Dino’s guiding style
- Weather and day-of expectations (including wet runs)
- Who this is best for (and who should skip it)
- Should you book the Fanal Ancient Forest running tour?
- FAQ
- How long is the Fanal Ancient Forest running tour?
- How far do you run, and how much elevation is involved?
- Where does the tour start and end?
- Is pickup available?
- What group size should I expect?
- What happens if the weather is poor?
Quick hits before you go

- Small group size (6 max) means more space, more guidance, and less waiting around
- UNESCO-listed Fanal Forest with ancient trees and an open pasture with cows
- Loop route of about 15 km with roughly 500m of climbing and descending
- Vereda do Fanal is the key stop for that classic Fanal feel
- Levada dos Cedros return gives you flatter running back toward the road
- English-speaking guide with past praise for Dino’s guiding
Into the Fanal Ancient Forest with a real running focus

This isn’t a casual walk where you stroll, take a few photos, and disappear into the crowd. It’s a trail run built around movement—starting with a gentle rise, reaching the Fanal forest area, then bringing you back down and along a levada section.
What makes it appealing for me is the balance of structure and atmosphere. You’re not left to guess where to go or how hard to push. You also aren’t trapped in a paved treadmill feel. The scenery matters here: Fanal’s ancient trees and misty, almost otherworldly pasture vibe turns a workout into a proper Madeira moment.
And the small group size is a big deal. With a max of six people, the guide can pay attention to pace and footing. That matters on this kind of terrain—especially when dirt turns to mud.
Start point and pickup: where your run begins in Funchal

You meet at Pestana CR7 Funchal (Praça CR7, Av. Sá Carneiro, São Martinho, 9000-017 Funchal). If you’re staying in Funchal, you can expect pickup from your accommodation. If you’re outside Funchal, pickup is still offered, but you’ll need an earlier pickup time.
It ends back at the meeting point. That simplicity helps: you can plan your morning or afternoon without figuring out a complicated second location.
Also note the tour runs about 3 hours (approx.). That time includes moving, stopping, and settling into the route—so you’re not booking an all-day hike dressed up as a run.
Climb to Vereda do Fanal: the first act of the route

The tour starts near Curral Falso at 850m, then heads up toward Fanal Forest, around 1150m. The climb is described as a soft head-up, which is exactly what you want for an easy-moderate trail run. You warm into it rather than launching into a steep grind right away.
A key stop is Vereda do Fanal. This is where the experience really switches from “getting there” to “being in it.” From a runner’s perspective, this part of the day matters because it sets your rhythm. If the weather is damp, the trail can feel heavier underfoot. But because the grade is gentle, you have time to find your breathing and adjust your stride.
The guide’s role here is practical. On trails like this—where footing changes—you want someone to help you pick your line and not overthink every step. Dino is specifically praised for guiding well, even in wet conditions, and that matches what you’d hope for on a route where roots and rocks show up when the ground is soft.
Fanal Forest itself: cows, ancient trees, and that unreal open space

When you reach Fanal Forest, you’re in the area that gives this tour its name and its reputation. You’ll find a green open space with cows and huge ancient trees. The feel is magical in a way that’s hard to describe until you’re standing there—long trunks, thick branches, and that “how is this real?” atmosphere.
This is also where you’ll understand why the tour is rated easy-moderate. You can run, but you’re also moving through a natural space that can slow you down—there’s no promise of smooth, predictable ground. That’s the point. You’re trading perfect conditions for atmosphere.
What I love about this section: it’s the kind of scenery that changes how your effort feels. Even if your legs are working, your brain gets a break because the surroundings are doing the heavy lifting. It turns a steady effort into a memorable experience.
Possible drawback: if it’s wet, the same ground that looks soft and scenic can become slippery. You’ll still have a great run, but you’ll need to stay switched on.
One useful detail: on a recent wet-weather run, the route came out to about 14 km and was still considered memorable. That tells me you should expect small variations depending on conditions and how the route is followed that day.
The return along Levada dos Cedros: flatter running, changing footing

After the Fanal portion, the route goes down to Levada dos Cedros. From there, you follow the levada for a flatter running section from the beginning of it until the road where you started.
For runners, this part is where you get your rhythm back. Flat running after a climb always feels like recovery—but don’t treat it as effortless. Levadas can mean uneven ground near water, plus dirt that can be muddy depending on recent rain.
The good news is that this isn’t just downhill chaos. The design is intentional: climb into the dramatic area, then return with a section that’s easier to run. That structure makes the tour feel “doable” for the easy-moderate crowd without turning it into a casual jog.
What to watch: because the track is described as dirt with rocks and roots, you’ll still be negotiating footing during the return. Even on the flatter section, you may need shorter steps to keep your stride stable.
Terrain reality check: dirt, mud, rocks, and roots

The track is a loop of about 15 km with roughly 500m of elevation gain/loss. That’s a meaningful amount for a 3-hour run, especially with trail conditions. The terrain is described as:
- dirt
- sometimes muddy
- rocks and roots
That combination affects how you should think about difficulty. This isn’t a training run on a packed surface. Your pace depends on traction and how clean your steps are.
Here’s how to make it more comfortable for yourself:
- Wear shoes you trust on mud and roots, not just dry paths
- Expect to slow down for tricky footing and speed up when it’s smoother
- Keep some energy in reserve for the return, because the flatter section can still feel tiring on uneven ground
If you’re used to road running only, this tour is still possible—but you’ll want to respect the trail. The easy-moderate label makes sense here because the climb is described as soft, but the surface still demands attention.
How long should you plan for: timing and effort

The tour is about 3 hours (approx.), and the loop is 15 km. That’s a lot of distance for three hours on trails, so you’re not aiming for a sprint pace. You’re aiming for steady effort with smart foot placement.
You’ll likely spend time:
- moving up the trail from Curral Falso
- reaching the Fanal area and taking in the open pasture setting
- descending toward Levada dos Cedros
- running the flatter section back to the road
This structure keeps you moving, but it also means you should avoid coming in cold. Give yourself a little time to warm up and settle before you start pushing.
Price and value: is $78.19 worth it?

At $78.19 per person for about 3 hours, this tour is priced like an experience that includes guide support and a tailored route, not just a route map and a meetup pin.
Value comes from three things:
- Maximum of 6 people: smaller group, more attention, and fewer logistics hassles
- Hands-on guidance on technical trail terrain: rocks and roots aren’t where you want to improvise
- A curated route that gives you both the climb into Fanal and the return along Levada dos Cedros
You’re also getting pickup in Funchal, plus an English-speaking guide and a mobile ticket. Those details matter when you’re spending a short time on the island and want your plans to click into place quickly.
Is it cheap? Not really. But for a small-group guided trail run through a UNESCO-listed area, it’s in a reasonable value zone—especially if you factor in that you don’t have to coordinate transportation to an out-and-back route on your own.
Getting the best out of Dino’s guiding style
One review calls out Dino as an excellent guide, and it’s easy to see why that praise fits. On a trail run with uneven footing, your guide isn’t just there for storytelling. They’re there for pacing and safety—especially when weather turns the trail slick.
Based on the tour format, you’ll probably benefit from:
- someone checking your pace on the climb
- practical help reading the ground when it’s wet
- steady direction so you stay focused on running, not navigation
If you want a run where you can pay attention to effort and not stress about route details, this setup is a good match.
Weather and day-of expectations (including wet runs)
The experience requires good weather. If it’s canceled due to poor weather, you’ll be offered a different date or a full refund.
That’s the right policy for this kind of terrain. Wet dirt plus roots can mean a more cautious footing day. Still, even with wet conditions, the guide-led experience has produced a memorable run around 14 km—so the weather isn’t automatically a deal-breaker. It’s a reason to dress and plan for traction.
If you’re booking this, watch your forecast and set expectations: even when conditions are less than ideal, the route is still designed to get you into Fanal’s best atmosphere.
Who this is best for (and who should skip it)
This is labeled Easy-Moderate and described as ideal for moderately experienced runners. That means you don’t need to be a marathoner, but you do need to be comfortable with:
- trail running on dirt
- rocks and roots
- some elevation (about 500m gain/loss)
- possible mud
It’s a great choice if you want Madeira in an active way, but you still want guidance and structure. It also works well for travelers who get bored on typical sightseeing loops and prefer something with movement and purpose.
You might want to skip it if you:
- can’t handle technical footing (roots/rocks/mud)
- only run comfortably on flat pavement
- are looking for a leisurely walk pace
Should you book the Fanal Ancient Forest running tour?
If you want a run that feels like part adventure, part scenery time, I think this tour is a strong yes. The small group cap, the UNESCO-listed setting, and the structured loop that combines climb + Fanal atmosphere + a levada return make it feel efficient and full-value in just about 3 hours.
Book it if you:
- enjoy trail running and can handle uneven ground
- want a guided route with manageable climbing
- like the idea of ancient trees and that open pasture vibe with cows
Hold off if you’re expecting a smooth, road-like experience or if wet conditions would ruin your comfort level. This is trail running on Madeira, not a treadmill workout.
FAQ
How long is the Fanal Ancient Forest running tour?
It lasts about 3 hours (approx.).
How far do you run, and how much elevation is involved?
The loop track is about 15 km with around 500m of elevation gain/loss.
Where does the tour start and end?
The meeting point is at Pestana CR7 Funchal, and the activity ends back at the same meeting point.
Is pickup available?
Yes. Pickup is offered from where you’re staying in Funchal. If you’re outside Funchal, pickup is also offered with an earlier pickup time.
What group size should I expect?
The tour has a maximum of 6 travelers.
What happens if the weather is poor?
If the tour is canceled due to poor weather, you’ll be offered a different date or a full refund.

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